WATCH THE FULL TOUR VIDEO HERE
Alright, leather aficionados! I recently had the incredible opportunity to step inside the legendary Horween Leather Company right here in Chicago, and let me tell you, it was an experience that blew my well-worn Grant Stone Diesel boots off. For anyone who appreciates the smell of good leather, the feel of a quality hide, or just the sheer artistry behind crafting something truly lasting, a tour of Horween is practically a pilgrimage. Horween is a working museum that has been in continuous operation since 1905 in Chicago.
Walking through those doors, you’re immediately hit with this rich, earthy aroma that’s unlike anything else. It’s the smell of history, of tradition, and of countless beautiful things in the making. I (Phil Kalas, ex 14 year Horween tannery employee) will walk you through each stage of the leather's journey.
The "Hide House" is the first stop – a cavernous room filled with stacks upon stacks of raw hides. It is fascinating to see the process of preparing these hides, removing the hair and the salt, getting them ready for their transformation. There’s something grounding about seeing the raw materials before they become the luxurious leather we all admire.
Then came the tanning. The sheer scale of the operation, the massive drums turning the hides in their tanning solutions… it’s a testament to the time-honored techniques that Horween has perfected. Chrome tanning provides a strong, heat-resistant leather (think your favorite work boots or baseball glove), while vegetable tanning, a much longer two-month process using natural tree barks, results in a firmer leather with a beautiful patina over time. Comparing two pieces of leather, one chrome-tanned, the other veg-tanned, and the difference in feel and even scent is remarkable.
Next up is the drying process, and this was surprisingly diverse! They use everything from a giant vacuum dryer to meticulously pasting the leather onto glass frames. There are also air drying and toggling, each method suited to different types of leather and desired outcomes. It’s all about controlling the moisture content to get the leather just right.
But the real magic, in my opinion, happens in the finishing department. This is where the leather truly comes into its own. The "hot stuffing" process, where they literally work nourishing oils and waxes deep into the leather, looked incredibly labor-intensive but crucial for that supple, rich feel we associate with high-quality leather. Then came the dyeing, the application of finishes and textures… Horween also uses a textured plate in a press to impart a specific grain onto a piece of leather. The tannery has about 200 unique textures for debossing.
Of course, no tour of Horween would be complete without a glimpse into the legendary Shell Cordovan process. This is a whole other level of dedication, taking six months to transform a specific part of a horsehide into that incredibly durable and sought-after leather. We see the artisans hand-currying the leather and then polishing it with glass rods – a technique passed down through generations. Horween is currently operated by the 5th generation, Nick Horween and 4th generation, Skip Horween.
It’s not just a material; it’s the result of a meticulous process, skilled craftsmanship, and a commitment to quality that has defined Horween for over a century. If you ever get the chance to experience a tannery tour, especially one at a place as steeped in history and expertise as Horween, jump at it. It's an eye-opening journey into the heart of leather making that you won't soon forget.
Have you ever toured a tannery or have a favorite Horween leather product? Share your experiences in the comments below!