To choose a leather belt, start with the leather, then pick a width that fits your belt loops and your wardrobe, and size it from a belt that already fits you. A single layer of quality leather with a solid brass buckle will outlast a glued, layered strap. For most people, a 1.5" strap in a firm Horween® leather covers jeans and work wear, while a 1.25" strap moves more easily between denim and chinos.
Below is how each choice plays out, using the belts we make in Chicago from Horween® leather. Use our Horween® leather belt guide to compare leathers and measure your size.
Start with the leather
The leather decides how a belt feels on day one and how it looks in year five. Every belt in our leather belts collection is made from Horween® leather, tanned in Chicago since 1905.
Horween® Illini Latigo. Combination-tanned, aniline, full grain and hot-stuffed. It has a firm temper and a tight grain that shrugs off scuffs, so the strap stays structured instead of going soft. Choose it if you want a belt that feels right from the first wear and handles hard daily use. We use it in The Standard Belt in Brown, the Blacked Out Standard Belt and the Bucktown Belt.
Horween® Dublin. Full grain and vegetable-tanned, with a hard wax finish and clear pull-up. It wears in with you and builds character over time. Our English Tan Dublin Standard Belt is a single strap with no filler and no glue core.
Horween® Chromexcel®. Combination-tanned and hot-stuffed with oils and waxes, Chromexcel® has a rich, oily hand and its signature pull-up, where the color lightens as the leather flexes. It is water-resistant for daily wear. See the Natural Chromexcel® Standard Belt.
Horween® Shell Cordovan. Equine shell with a long vegetable tannage and a glassy, self-polishing luster. Our Shell Cordovan Belt pairs shell cordovan with a layer of Horween® vegetable-tanned horsebutt, and comes in Color 8 and Black. It is the dressiest belt we make and a natural match for raw denim and leather boots.
Why single layer matters. Many belts are two thin layers glued around a filler. Over time those layers can separate. Our Standard Belts are one strap of leather from end to end, so there is nothing to delaminate.
Pick the right width
Width is the quickest way to dress a belt up or down.
- 1.5" (our Standard Belt and Shell Cordovan Belt): the classic jean and work belt width. It fills standard denim belt loops and reads casual and rugged.
- 1.25" (our Bucktown Belt): a versatile in-between. It is rugged enough for raw denim yet refined enough for chinos and a blazer.
If you mostly wear jeans and boots, go 1.5". If you want one belt for both denim and dressier trousers, 1.25" is the easier daily driver.
Get the size right
Belt size is not the same as your pant size. Here is how we size our belts:
- Measure your current belt. This is the best way to get your correct size. Lay a belt that fits you flat and measure from where the leather meets the buckle to the hole you use most.
- Or use your jean size plus 2". We size our belts to the middle hole, so you have room to move in either direction. If you wear size 32 jeans, order a size 34 belt.
- Account for stretch. Leather can stretch up to about 1" depending on how hard you pull the belt closed. For a snug fit, you can size down an inch.
- Between sizes? Size up. We make even sizes only, from 30" to 42".
Choose the buckle
The buckle takes most of the daily strain, so it should be as solid as the strap. Our belts use solid brass hardware. The Bucktown Belt uses a solid brass roller buckle, which lets the strap slide through with less friction, and seven teardrop-shaped holes that let the pin sit flatter against the strap and reduce wear. The Shell Cordovan Belt uses a solid brass buckle in an antique finish.
Brass develops its own warm patina over time, which suits leather that is aging alongside it.
Care for your belt
Good leather needs very little from you:
- Let it rest. Rotating between two belts gives each one time to recover its shape.
- Wipe it down. Use a soft, dry cloth to remove dust and dirt.
- Condition sparingly. When the leather looks dry, a light leather conditioner keeps it supple. Less is more.
- Dry it naturally. Keep your belt out of heavy rain where you can. If your belt gets wet, let it air dry away from direct heat.
- Buff the scuffs. Firm, hot-stuffed leathers like Illini Latigo and Chromexcel® often buff out light scuffs with your fingers or a cloth.
Dress vs casual
- Casual (jeans, work pants, boots): a 1.5" Illini Latigo, Dublin or Chromexcel® Standard Belt. Brown and English Tan pair easily with blue denim.
- Smart casual (chinos, a blazer): the 1.25" Bucktown Belt, with tonal stitching for a cleaner look.
- Dressed up: Shell Cordovan. Its deep luster looks sharp with leather shoes and boots. Match your belt color to your shoes for the most polished result.
Shop all Horween® leather belts.
FAQ
What size leather belt should I buy? Order your jean size plus 2". If you wear 32" jeans, a 34" belt will fasten on the middle hole. Measuring a belt that already fits you is the most accurate method.
What width leather belt is most versatile? A 1.25" belt is the most versatile because it works with jeans, chinos and a blazer. A 1.5" belt is the classic width for jeans and work wear.
What leather is best for a belt? A firm, full grain leather like Horween® Illini Latigo holds its shape and resists scuffs. Horween® Chromexcel® offers a softer, oil-rich feel, and Horween® Shell Cordovan is the dressiest choice.
Is a single-layer leather belt better? A single-layer belt is one solid strap, so it cannot delaminate the way glued, layered belts can.
Will my leather belt stretch? Yes. Leather can stretch up to about 1" depending on how tightly you wear it, which is why you can size down an inch for a snug fit.
Can a leather belt get wet? A little rain is fine, but leather should not be soaked. Horween® Chromexcel® is water-resistant, and any belt that gets wet should air dry away from direct heat.