By Phil Kalas
Choosing a high-quality leather wallet is an investment. If you’re looking for a piece that doesn't just "last" but actually gets better with age, you’ve likely come across the name Horween®.
At Ashland Leather, we don’t just use Horween® leather, we live it. Ashland was founded in 2011 by two former Horween® tanners in Chicago. We spent our days inside the tannery, selecting the finest hides in the world to bring back to our workshop.
But for a newcomer, the world of "Shell Cordovan" and "Chromexcel®" can be confusing. This guide will help you choose the right tannage for your lifestyle, featuring our flagship bifold, the Johnny the Fox.
The best Horween® leather for a wallet depends on how you want it to age. Shell cordovan is the most durable and never creases; Dublin builds a dark patina fastest; Chromexcel® feels broken in from day one; Cypress is low-maintenance with a self-healing wax finish; Latigo is firm and tough.
1. The Fan Favorite: English Tan Dublin
Best for: The person who loves a rugged, "vintage" look that changes quickly.
This is one of our best-sellers for good reason. Dublin is a full grain, vegetable-tanned leather that is infused with the same special blend of tree barks used in Shell Cordovan.
- The Vibe: Rich, warm, and full of "pull-up" (when the leather lightens as you fold it).
- The Patina: Dublin develops a dark, honey-like character faster than almost any other leather.
- The Pick: Johnny the Fox in English Tan Dublin.
2. The Gold Standard: Horween® Shell Cordovan
Best for: The enthusiast who wants the most durable leather we make wallets from.
Shell Cordovan isn't actually "hide", it's a dense muscle fiber from the hindquarters of a horse. It takes six months to tan. It doesn't crease; it ripples.
- The Vibe: A mirror-like luster and a feel like polished marble.
- The Durability: It is exceptionally durable. A Shell Cordovan Johnny the Fox is built to become an heirloom.
- The Pick: Johnny the Fox in Black or Natural Shell Cordovan.
We’ve also taken Shell Cordovan beyond the wallet. Our Black Shell Cordovan Sling Bag took 15 months and more than 20 prototypes to develop. See how we designed and made the Sling Bag.
3. The Classic: Horween® Chromexcel® (CXL)
Best for: The person who wants a soft, "broken-in" feel from day one.
Chromexcel® is the original "pull-up" leather. It has been made using the same formula for over 100 years. It is combination-tanned and hot-stuffed with greases and waxes, making it supple and water-resistant.
- The Vibe: Rich, waxy, and comfortable in the pocket immediately.
4. The New Contender: Horween® Cypress
Best for: Those who want a sleek, modern look with a slightly firmer temper.
Cypress is a newer addition to our lineup. It is a full grain, combination-tanned leather with a heavy vegetable retannage, fat liquored and finished with a self-healing wax, so it offers a beautiful, smooth grain with a very consistent finish. It’s sophisticated and stands up well to daily scuffs.
For a look at Cypress beyond wallets, we featured a LaSalle Briefcase in Burnt Orange Cypress in our September 17 release. See the briefcase and the rest of the drop.
5. The Workhorse: Horween® Latigo
Best for: A clean, classic aesthetic with extreme toughness.
Latigo is a full grain, "combination tanned" leather, meaning it gets the strength of chrome tanning with the beautiful aging properties of vegetable tanning. It’s firm, sturdy, and has a very "finished" look.
Want the full story on how these leathers are tanned and what separates one from the next? Read our guide to Horween® leather.
Shop Our Johnny the Fox Leather Wallet Collection
How to Care for Your Ashland Leather Goods
Because we use the world’s best leathers, they don't need much. However, a little "TLC" goes a long way in ensuring they age gracefully.
1. Rejuvenate with Tanner’s Blend
If your wallet starts to feel dry or looks a bit dull after a year of use, apply a thin layer of our Tanner’s Blend Leather Conditioner.
It’s 100% natural and penetrates deep to keep the fibers supple.
2. Restore Luster with Venetian Shoe Cream
For that "fresh out of the box" shine, especially on Shell Cordovan, we recommend Horween® Venetian Shoe Cream. It cleans and polishes without changing the leather’s color.
3. The Secret Weapon: The Horsehair Brush
After applying any conditioner, use our Horsehair Shine Brush. Brushing vigorously generates heat, which helps the waxes in the leather rise to the surface, "putting a bright face" back on your wallet.
Shop Our Leather Care Collection
Frequently asked questions
Which Horween® leather is best for a wallet?
For maximum durability and luster, shell cordovan. For the fastest patina, Dublin. For a soft feel right away, Chromexcel®. For easy everyday care, Cypress.
What is the most durable Horween® leather?
Shell cordovan. Its dense fiber does not crease and it can be polished back to a mirror-like luster again and again.
Is Chromexcel® water-resistant?
Yes. Chromexcel® is hot-stuffed with waxes, oils and greases, which make it water-resistant.
How do I care for a Horween® leather wallet?
Brush it with a horsehair brush, and apply a thin layer of Tanner's Blend conditioner if it looks dry after a year or so.
Made in Chicago, Built for Life
Every Ashland Leather product is handcrafted right here in Chicago, Illinois. When you buy a Johnny the Fox, you aren't just buying a leather wallet; you’re buying a piece of American tanning history, crafted by the very people who know the leather best.
Ready to find your match?
Still deciding on a leather? Start with our Horween® leather guide, tanned six-tenths of a mile from our Chicago workshop.