By Phil Kalas
Choosing a high-quality leather wallet is an investment. If you’re looking for a piece that doesn't just "last" but actually gets better with age, you’ve likely come across the name Horween.
At Ashland Leather, we don’t just use Horween leather—we live it. Our founders actually work at the Horween Leather Company in Chicago. We spend our days inside the tannery, selecting the finest hides in the world to bring back to our workshop.
But for a newcomer, the world of "Shell Cordovan" and "Chromexcel" can be confusing. This guide will help you choose the right tannage for your lifestyle, featuring our flagship bifold, the Johnny the Fox.
1. The Fan Favorite: English Tan Dublin
Best for: The person who loves a rugged, "vintage" look that changes quickly.
This is one of our best-sellers for good reason. Dublin is a vegetable-tanned leather that is infused with the same special blend of tree barks used in Shell Cordovan.
- The Vibe: Rich, warm, and full of "pull-up" (when the leather lightens as you fold it).
- The Patina: Dublin develops a dark, honey-like character faster than almost any other leather.
- The Pick: Johnny the Fox in English Tan Dublin.
2. The Gold Standard: Horween Shell Cordovan
Best for: The enthusiast who wants the rarest, most durable leather on earth.
Shell Cordovan isn't actually "hide"—it's a dense muscle fiber from the hindquarters of a horse. It takes six months to tan. It doesn't crease; it ripples.
- The Vibe: A mirror-like luster and a feel like polished marble.
- The Durability: It is virtually indestructible. A Shell Cordovan Johnny the Fox is a literal heirloom.
- The Pick: Johnny the Fox in Color #8 or Natural Shell Cordovan.
3. The Classic: Horween Chromexcel (CXL)
Best for: The person who wants a soft, "broken-in" feel from day one.
Chromexcel is the original "pull-up" leather. It’s been made using the same secret formula for over 100 years. It’s heavy on greases and waxes, making it incredibly supple.
- The Vibe: Rich, waxy, and comfortable in the pocket immediately.
4. The New Contender: Horween Cypress
Best for: Those who want a sleek, modern look with a slightly firmer temper.
Cypress is a newer addition to our lineup. It’s an oiled tannage that offers a beautiful, smooth grain with a very consistent finish. It’s sophisticated and stands up well to daily scuffs.
5. The Workhorse: Horween Latigo
Best for: A clean, classic aesthetic with extreme toughness.
Latigo is "combination tanned," meaning it gets the strength of chrome tanning with the beautiful aging properties of vegetable tanning. It’s firm, sturdy, and has a very "finished" look.
Shop Our Johnny the Fox Leather Wallet Collection
How to Care for Your Ashland Leather Goods
Because we use the world’s best leathers, they don't need much. However, a little "TLC" goes a long way in ensuring they age gracefully.
1. Rejuvenate with Tanner’s Blend
If your wallet starts to feel dry or looks a bit dull after a year of use, apply a thin layer of our Tanner’s Blend Leather Conditioner.
It’s 100% natural and penetrates deep to keep the fibers supple.
2. Restore Luster with Venetian Shoe Cream
For that "fresh out of the box" shine—especially on Shell Cordovan—we recommend Horween Venetian Shoe Cream. It cleans and polishes without changing the leather’s color.
3. The Secret Weapon: The Horsehair Brush
After applying any conditioner, use our Horsehair Shine Brush. Brushing vigorously generates heat, which helps the waxes in the leather rise to the surface, "putting a bright face" back on your wallet.
Shop Our Leather Care Collection
Made in Chicago, Built for Life
Every Ashland Leather product is handcrafted right here in Chicago, Illinois. When you buy a Johnny the Fox, you aren't just buying a leather wallet; you’re buying a piece of American tanning history, crafted by the very people who know the leather best.
Ready to find your match?