Horween leather. Ashland craft.
Horween® leather. Ashland craft.
Horween® is the Chicago tannery that's made some of the world's finest leathers since 1905. Ashland handcrafts every wallet and belt we sell from Horween® hides, a few miles from the tannery floor. Some of these leathers resist water. None of them are waterproof.
Handcrafted in Chicago. Guaranteed for life: we stand behind the stitching and leather against coming apart under normal use.
Shell Cordovan
An equine leather cut from the shell, vegetable-tanned at Horween® over roughly six months. It's naturally aniline-finished and self-polishing, with a dense fiber structure that builds luster instead of creasing. Widely considered the best leather in the world.
Shop Shell Cordovan
Dublin
Horween® full-grain cowhide, vegetable-tanned in the same tannage family as Shell Cordovan, finished with a hard wax coat. It pulls up in the hand and wears in with a rich, matured look — our best-selling leather for everyday wallets.
Shop Johnny in DublinWhat is Horween® leather?
Horween® leather is full-grain leather tanned in Chicago since 1905, using traditional processes that run from weeks to months per hide depending on the leather. Ashland Leather handcrafts every wallet and belt we sell from Horween®'s Shell Cordovan, Chromexcel, and Dublin leathers.
Shell Cordovan vs. Chromexcel (CXL) vs. Dublin
- Shell Cordovan — equine leather, vegetable-tanned over roughly six months, self-polishing. Best for wallets and small goods handled every day.
- Chromexcel (CXL) — combination-tanned, hot-stuffed with oils and waxes, known for pull-up. Best for wallets, bags, and belts that see daily wear.
- Dublin — full-grain cowhide, vegetable-tanned in the same tannage family as Shell Cordovan, finished with a hard wax coat. Best for belts and wallets that wear in over time.
All three develop a patina with use. None are waterproof, though Chromexcel and Dublin resist water better than an unfinished vegetable-tanned hide.
How Ashland uses Horween® leather
Every wallet and belt we make starts with Horween®. You'll find it across our wallet collection and our leather belts, including pieces like Johnny the Fox in Horween® Dublin. New leathers and limited runs show up first in our limited releases.
Care basics
Condition occasionally with a leather-safe conditioner, not on a rigid schedule. Water-resistant is not waterproof, so wipe off wet leather and let it air dry. Patina, darkening, and surface character are normal signs of a leather aging, not defects.
Phil & Dan, Off the Tannery Floor
Phil Kalas and Dan Cordova met working at Horween® Leather before starting Ashland in Chicago in 2011. Both learned the trade tanning the same Shell Cordovan, Chromexcel, and Dublin leathers Ashland still uses today. Every piece is handcrafted a few miles from that tannery, by people who understand the material from the hide up.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is Shell Cordovan?
Shell Cordovan is an equine leather cut from the shell, the dense, flat muscle beneath a horse's hindquarter. It's vegetable-tanned at Horween® over roughly six months and finished to a natural, self-polishing shine.
Is Chromexcel (CXL) waterproof?
No leather is waterproof, and Chromexcel is no exception. It's water-resistant thanks to the oils and waxes worked into it during tanning, but it isn't meant for submersion or heavy, sustained rain.
What is Dublin leather?
Dublin is a full-grain cowhide finished with a hard wax coat. It uses the same tannage family as Shell Cordovan and wears in with a rich, matured look over time.
Where is Horween® leather made?
Horween® leather is tanned in Chicago, at the tannery that's operated there since 1905. Ashland Leather is handcrafted a few miles from that same tannery floor.
Which Ashland wallets use Horween® leather?
Every Ashland wallet, belt, and accessory is made from Horween® leather, most often Shell Cordovan, Chromexcel, or Dublin, depending on the piece.